Ken Voorhis, our host from the previous evening, not only brought us back to the trail at Newfound Gap, he also hiked the first four hours north with us. His encyclopedic knowledge of all things Smokies plus his engaging personality made for a delightful morning. On his fourth attempt at rolling over an old, decaying moss-covered log, Ken unearthed a Red Cheeked Salamander, an iconic creature found nowhere else on the planet but here in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. (As a part of today’s nature lesson, we will note the Red Cheeked Salamander gives off a mucous substance (or slime) that will gum up the mouth of a snake or other potential predator. What a handy defensive tool! Ken also sharpened X’s wildflower ID skills.

We stopped for a brief snack at Icewater Spring Shelter, where volunteers were busy cleaning out the fireplace and sealing the roof. We then climbed to a rock vantage point for lunch at the popular Charlies Bunion. Over a dozen people also visited while we were there.

The weather had seemed a little iffy as we began the day’s walk, but as the day wore on, sunny and warm became the prominent condition, and as we followed the knife-like ridges formed by layers of rock stood on end, we were treated with amazing views in all directions. A perfect day on the AT.

The miles seemed to go a little slower after Ken bid us farewell and headed back to his car at Newfound Gap, and we were not too excited about the half mile detour away from the AT to tonight’s shelter, a distance we would have to retrace UP hill in the morning before we could again start clicking off the miles to Maine, but we were in camp by 5 p.m. with plenty of daylight to fix dinner and filter water for tomorrow. We shared the full shelter with both new (to us) folks, and some like Metric, Sticks and Knief who we’ve been seeing (on and off) for a hundred miles.

There were a few mouse sightings before dark. (It’s funny what good cheap entertainment a small mouse can provide…) We watched one brave little fellow cross over all the lined up trail shoes airing out for the night. Not one of us was surprised he didn’t venture into a shoe. The poor thing would probably have expired from the stink alone! As we say our “Good Nights,” we hope the mice will stay away from our packs hung carefully from the ceiling of the shelter…