Today altitude became a factor, as we ascended from 8,563’ to 11,286’. Everyone is different in how they adjust to decreasing oxygen at higher elevations. In fact every trip can be different, as an elevation that has caused no problems for a person in the past can all of a sudden put one in difficulty. But 3,000 meters (9,800 feet) is a good elevation to start paying attention to such things, and after crossing the Dudh Koshi for the fourth time today, the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar would almost immediately put us above that height.

R.E.I. had planned our schedule so the average person would have time to acclimatize to the changing conditions, and thus avoid altitude sickness. On the whole, their plan was successful, but my observation was just about everyone in our party had if not a mild case of altitude sickness, at least “one bad day” as their bodies tried to get use to continually lower oxygen levels. Somewhere between 300 and 500 meters is a good rule of thumb to limit you daily ascent before sleeping, to let your body adjust and “catch up.” We were pushing that rule today, but would make up for it by taking a rest day in Namche. 

At Jorsale, we enter Sagarmatha National Park. “Sagarmatha” (meaning sky+forehead) is the modern Nepali word for the world’s highest peak. Sherpa people have long referred to the mountain as “Chomolungma” – goddess mother of the world. [Against his wishes, the western name comes from the former British Surveyor General of India Sir George Everest.] At the gate to the park, permits are checked and fees are paid. All new wood construction within the park must be done with timber from outside the area. We saw many porters along the way carrying heavy loads of lumber. Officials at the gate seemed to be carefully documenting these loads. [In fact, we never saw a porter whose load did not seem back-brakingly heavy. Many loads appeared in the range of 80% of the man’s weight!] 

As we approached Namche, clouds began to build, and visibility of the surrounding peaks became nonexistent. This became the regular afternoon weather pattern for our whole time in the Khumbu. It became a cold and dreary day. Namche sits in a large natural amphitheater, and except for the literal “downtown” area, there is no level ground, just many, many steps. The climb up to our tea room and yak pen campsite for the next two days was tough on the lungs…