Tuesday, April 17, 2012
The Weather Becomes a Factor (or how we learned Franklin is still truly a great trail town)
The threatened Monday night thunderstorm at Carter Gap Shelter never materialized. Just a real small sprinkle in the middle of the night. A cold wind funneled through the low-ceilinged shelter “basement” as we lay on our dusty platform, but the location did provide enough cell phone reception (3 bars!) for us to see the bad weather was only delayed: Tuesday was shaping up to be a very wet night in the woods.
Our push to Carter Gap had put us in good shape to reach Franklin earlier than we planned, if we were willing to do another 16+ mile day. As soon as we woke up (6:15 a.m., or 0615 hiker time), a two-night stay in town to wait out the predicted 2 inches of rain became our goal.
The day started with a short climb, then 2 1/2 miles of downhill into Betty Creek Gap. On our regular schedule of water breaks every 30 minutes, with water and a small snack every 60 minutes, we played leap frog with those other hikers who also left the shelter early.
The climbing got serious as we approached the 5,250′ Albert Mountain (240′ shorter than yesterday’s Standing Indian Mountain, but a much tougher climb). The approach from the south is extremely steep and rocky. (Especially when the non-purist AT hiker could just walk up the dirt Forest Service road to the old fire tower.) We were caught by a strapping 20-year old named “Bullmoose” from Massachusetts, who is about as pleasant to talk to as anyone we’ve encountered on the AT, and his company made the tough challenge of the climb even… enjoyable! The clouds were ending the morning sun as we reached the summit, but the 360° views were still spectacular. N was disappointed the trap door up to the tower platform was padlocked, but that would have only been icing on the cake. We should also mention we crossed the AT 100-mile mark (yeah!) just 1/10 mile before reaching the fire tower.
Leaving Albert Mountain just after 1200, we still had almost ten miles to go to reach Winding Stair Gap, and hopefully a ride to town. We felt like we were zooming as we came off Albert, but by Glassmine Gap our feet were getting sore (the product of a rocky uneven trail in this section), and our energy was sagging. We stopped for water at Rock Gap Shelter where the gathered group of hikers had several different plans for the rest of the day. Most involved camping in the rain before either a short or longer re-supply in Frankln. We pushed on knowing the storm was getting close.
Around 1600 (or 4 p.m. hiker time) our pack covers and gaiters came out, and after the climb out of Wallace Gap, all heck broke loose. Claps of thunder directly overhead, lightning within several 100 yards, and finally a pelting of pea-sized hail began to hammer the Troverts.
When we heard the traffic on U.S. 64, we were so cold and wet, we didn’t want to risk a delay in hitching. We called Haven’s Budget Inn where we had a reservation to see it they could come get us at the gap, but no one answered. We turned to a second option setting up a ride with Kathy Miller who we knew from our Fall shakedown hike, but she couldn’t be there for about an hour because she was in the middle of cooking supper, but she’d be there “just as soon as she could.”
Now here’s where the story gets truly amazing… We came out of the woods and down to the Winding Stair Gap parking lot just as Chuck, Vickie and Kaitlyn Sutton pulled up in their big pickup truck. We could see them scanning the treeline, which they said they did every time they crossed the Gap during hiker season. As soon as they spotted us, they pulled into the nearest parking space.
The Suttons apologized for only having the empty truck bed, but asked could they give us a ride to town. As the rain really started pouring in buckets, we explained we had Kathy on the way. While X tried to call to stop Kathy, Chuck handed us juice and snacks. N asked for a recommendation on delivery pizza, as he thought if we ever made it to a dry room and hot shower, we’d never want to leave for the rest of the night. After one failed call, Kathy Miller got back to X with a text to say “God provides,” and she would turn around and go back to fixing her dinner. (Much thanks, Kathy, for being there for us!)
We hunkered down like two wet pups in the bed of the open truck for the exciting ten mile ride into Franklin. When Chuck pulled into the Budget Inn, a lady came rushing out to say there’d been a mix-up and she had no rooms left, but there were still rooms at the Sapphire Inn just down the street. Chuck said they’d be glad to take us on over the extra mile to our new home for the night.
When we got there, the Suttons said unless we really had our hearts set on pizza, their brother-in-law ran a great place that had a homemade turkey and dressing special tonight, and they’d be happy to go pick up some dinner for us. They took our order for choice of vegetables, and were back in a matter of minutes with homemade pie thrown in for dessert! For all of which they’d accept no money. From the verge of hypothermia to the lap of luxury with some of the best “comfort food” we’ve ever tasted. You could not make this stuff up, just too unbelievable.
Talk about trail magic and trail angels! Sutton family, you are the best!
The rain and lightning continued all night, and we were very glad to be off the trail, but worried about our new trail friends who decided to tough it out with Mother Nature…