It was 37° with swirling mist when we left the protective comfort of last night’s shelter high atop Roan Mountain. After yesterday’s experience, doing over 16 miles today seemed like an impossibility, but we made that our goal (plus getting to the Mountain Harbour hostel by 5:00 p.m. so we could catch the shuttle into town to grab dinner and groceries). The trail down to Carvers Gap had several substantial footbridges (which were so lacking on yesterday’s climb up Roan Mountain) and in several places the trail had been improved with filter cloth and gravel. Also, the strong winds even in the fog had done a great job of starting to dry the trail. X in the lead was fairly zooming! We missed what we think must have been some great views off of Round and Jane Balds, but made it to the Stan Murray shelter a little ahead of 2 mph pace (which for two old folks is the AT equivalent of “busting the world open”).

We stopped only long enough for a quick snack and to note in the log that Piper Hiker had stayed there the night before. We could only marvel how much distance he had covered after lunch yesterday while we were inching our way up Roan. The man is a hiking fool…

Just before our break, we had noticed moments when the fog lightened a bit. Then we could see the hint of mountain shapes in the distance, followed by our faint shadows, and finally the return of the sun. What a glorious thing!

There’s a sign here at our home for the night that says “If you’re lucky enough to live in the mountains, you’re lucky enough.” Well, today we were fortunate enough just to be passing through on what X describes as her favorite day from our first full month of hiking.

How quickly spirits can improve with sunshine and fabulous views! When we left for Springer a month ago, we were hoping for weather like today in the Smokies. That didn’t happen. But if the weather was saving up for the right time, today was the right time! Our hike over the Roan Highlands could only be described as spectacular. The 360° panoramas, the various shades of green, the clouds and sun moving over the landscape, the incredible line of sight to far-reaching mountain tops: wow! We drank it all in like scenery deprived hikers, and after the day before we were exactly that!

We know we’ll have days like Wednesday again somewhere up ahead. That’s life on “The Trail.” However, perhaps our morale will not be caught so off guard next time. We must remember to be patient no matter how bad the weather: eventually the rain and clouds will go away and the sun and blue skies will return. But we digress…

The view down on the old barn now converted to the Overmountain shelter with the weather ceiling lifting off Roan Mountain as a backdrop was spectacular. Then that was topped by the view from the mile-high Little Hump Mountain where we could see the trail drop down to a bald saddle before we began an extremely windswept ascent to the top of 5,587′ Big Hump Mountain. Some local day hikers pointed out a number of landmarks for us: Grandfather Mountain ahead of us, Mount Mitchell way off in the distance, and several ski resorts below on neighboring ridges.

We ended the day’s hike with a 5.5 mile section down to Highway 19E. One or two rock scrambles proved a challenge, but were compensated for with a series of stone steps and a walk under a massive overhanging rock wall. At Doll Flats three miles from the bottom, without fanfare, we left North Carolina for the last time. NC provided quite an exit.

We reached the highway at 4:22 and a short walk along the road (where we note the trucks and most cars were giving pedestrians no quarter) brought us to Terry and Mary Hill’s hostel well before our deadline. We are staying literally above the stables in a converted barn, but that description gives no indication how nice are our facilities. By calling ahead, we snagged the hostel’s only king-size bed, separated from the common area by a curtain. (Which puts us on the same level as the shower. A fact not to be sneezed at…)

The run to town is delayed a half hour as Mr. Hill completes fence repairs where his horses have been getting out near the upper end of his property, but we use this time for two wonderful showers, which put our feet back on speaking terms with us before dinner.

There are eight guests piled in the pick-up for the four mile ride to the town of Roan Mountain’s central business district. Driving in, we see most of our fellow traveler Canadian contingent has wound up in Roan Mountain as well. Towns seem to have a strong attraction after periods of wet weather… (Last night at the shelter our two German friends decided to hitch nine miles into NC and the next town over to find a motel and a large grocery. But after a very tough hitch, the cheapest room they can find was $84, and they make another tough hitch hike back to join us here at Mountain Harbour Hiker Hostel.) The group goes our separate ways to shop and eat (with us being treated very well at the Hillbilly Barbeque) before all of us eventually converge on Bob’s Dairyland, where we’re picked up for the return trip.

We end the day with a call to check in with our BCM (Base Camp Manager) who reports all is well back home. [And we apologize for this lengthy post. It is dangerous to give bloggers unlimited electricity and decent cell reception after several days in the woods…]