Saturday, June 23, 2012
"The hikers' feet are on thy shore, Maryland, my Maryland/ I smell 'em half a mile or more, Maryland, my Maryland..." (plus the Civil War on South Mountain and working for a free dinner)
Emotionally, after yesterday’s high point at the ATC, it seemed like today we were doing a re-start of the AT, and we worried about a letdown. We need not have worried. It turned out to be one of our best days yet…
We toured historic Harpers Ferry then crossed the Potomac on the railroad bridge as we followed the AT out of town. We shared the perfectly level C&O Canal towpath with runners, bikers, and all sorts of hikers before beginning the big climb of the day at Weaverton. Between the Weaverton Cliffs Overlook and the next shelter, we realized we were hiking with the Charons who our friend Greenhorn had been trying to catch up with for as long as we were with him on the trail. We introduced ourselves and they proved to be as delightful a couple as Greenhorn had described. Both our ages and hiking pace seem similar and over the course of the day we enjoyed getting to know them.
Both the trail and the weather were kind to us today, and the miles seemed to pass quickly. By 5:30pm we had arrived at the Dahlgren Backpack Campground, our destination for the night. We had read in our guide hot showers were available and of course that in itself was enough of a reason to pull us in. As we approached the site we noticed a large group (with tents way too big to be long distance AT hikers!) had already set up at the opposite end of the large open area from the restroom/showers. Word quickly spread through our today not so little hiking bubble that they were a 4-H group (concentrating on insects) out of Frederick, MD, and they were offering a spaghetti dinner (complete with homemade cobbler) to all the thru hikers. The only thing they wanted in return was for us to tell stories of our experiences on the AT. Wow!
After setting up our tent, X had time before dinner to avail herself of the shower which didn’t disappoint. Sweaty hiking clothes were washed and hung to dry right as the call to dinner came. About a dozen thru hikers mingled with the group and it was a delicious meal.
The evening unfolded around the campfire as the Charons, Last Out, Bright Flower, Toenail, Franklinstein, Carver, Rampage, and the Troverts shared stories of the trail. Most of the memorable experiences focused on the random acts of kindness (i.e. Trail Magic) that have happened to us over the past three months and stories of the weather (usually of the miserable variety).
Finishing up with S’mores and cobbler we headed off to our tents quite full and feeling very blessed by the folks who we’d just met. The trail continues to be a special place.
From: Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Harpers Ferry WV
To: Dahlgren Backpack Campground (MD)
Today's Miles: 17.8
Total Miles to Date: 1,034.5
[Our daily elevation profile comes from David "Awol" Miller's 2012 "The A.T. Guide," which we found to be invaluable. Get your updated copy at www.theATguide.com]
39°19’23.0″N 77°43’43.5″W