We ask our York, PA, host Francis, “Now really, how bad are the Pennsylvania rocks?” Francis replies: “I’ve lived here all my life. This is where I first hiked the AT, and for many years this was the only AT I knew. So, when I think of the AT, Pennsylvania is what I think it should all look like. You just need to keep your eyes down on the trail a little more than usual, but you should be able to get in a rhythm with your steps and it won’t be bad at all.” Today will be the first day we get to check this out for ourselves, as our AT guide says expect six miles of “trail very rocky” before Duncannon.

N “the human alarm clock” wakes up an hour too early, then uncharacteristically falls back to sleep, putting the Troverts behind schedule and keeping Francis from getting us back to the trail until 6:30. Our first landmark is the foot tunnel under PA 944, famous for its quick construction time (in only 50 hours) to prevent long term closure of this busy road. We also see large amounts of bee balm (which our host uses as an ice cream topping) has been planted nearby.

After a short climb, we are officially out of the great valley. Along the way a stone bench gives us a chance to look back over yesterday’s route. We stop briefly at the Darlington Shelter to sign the log, and check out the privy, which modestly bares a sign saying “the Taj Mahal.”

Ten miles into the day, we take Yukon and Daffy’s advice not to go off trail to the Cove Mountain Shelter (too steep, poor water source) and eat some snacks right along the trail. We find the rocks not to be particularly difficult. We stop to enjoy the view of Duncannon from Hawk Rock before making a steep (some would say treacherous) descent into town. We have the Doyle Hotel on our minds but the smell of barbecue just the other side of the US 11/15 overpass is more diverting than a siren’s call. (and while the Pennsylvania BBQ was good, it’s not as good as the stuff back home…) Our stomachs filled, we finally reach the Doyle, which is like a thru hiker convention. As previously reported, One has set up free beers for the first 50 thru-hikers to arrive since Wednesday, and we partake. As well as say a tearful goodbye to One, who is taking a few days off at home.

We walk quickly through town and meet Francis on the Susquehanna River bridge where he had come to once again pick us up and take us to his home. He is quickly spoiling us to the rigors of the trail. And we should mention with this afternoon’s clouds, we never came close to yesterday’s heat.