We awoke to lightning out the window at 4:00 a.m. and were thankful to be able roll over for another hour of sleep. When Kim returned us to the state park at 6:30, weather conditions remained ominous. Within minutes of starting to hike around Canopus Lake, we were donning rain hats and pack covers.

For 80 minutes, we counted the distance to the lightning (thankfully always at least a mile away) as we picked our way along the rocky lakeside trail. After many short ups and downs, we climbed to an overlook at the lake’s north end where of course there was nothing visible in the mist except wet rocks and slippery roots. Thank goodness for trekking poles!

Then for the next 40 minutes the bottom dropped out. In the deluge the trail became a swollen stream and we were soaked from head to toe. The one saving grace was the mild temperature which allowed us to walk wet but comfortable without our rain jackets.

After four miles, the rain began to let up as we climbed Shenandoah Mountain. At the flag painted on the open rock on top in memory of 9/11, the only view was straight over head to a hint of most welcome clearing sky. When we reached Ralph’s Peak Hikers Shelter, folks who rode out the rain there were ready to finally begin their hiking day. (With its door at one end and covered porch at the other, plus amenities such as tables and a trashcan, the RPH shelter had as much personality as any shelter we’ve encountered.) After a short snack break, we followed after them, under the Taconic State Parkway and up Hosner Mountain. The climb was not bad, but the trail paralleling the ridge top was rocky and slow going, especially down to and back up from Hosner Mountain Road. However, the thought of the deli ahead on NY 52 kept us moving.

We arrived at the Mountain Top Deli (4/10 mile off the trail towards Stormville NY) to find a dozen backpacks lined up out front. Obviously, this was the place for lunch! We not only ate well, but took some time to dry out in the sun.

The four miles to the next shelter was an easy hike, which we needed with our full stomachs. Looking at the approaching yellows and reds on the radar, it looked like a great stopping point, with a hand pump just down the hill. Several hikers passed through but only Lucky 10 and TP Tommy (named for the tent, not the paper) joined us for the night. Tipi Tommy (which as we think about it is how it should be spelled…) is a southbound thru-hiker from Gatlinburg who left Katahdin on 5/24. We enjoyed getting his take on the next 750 miles.

Well past hiker midnight, and all those storms have passed north and south of us…